Other Costume designs and other such sundry notions

[laceanddoodles]

EDIT: I just realized I tagged this as a tutorial by accident. So, as I post more here, I will be talking about my design process and research methods, sharing resources and references, and other such things. I am an amateur costume historian, and I do believe I have a bit of expertise to share.


Just a place for me to store and organize some of my sketches and doodles and designs.

 

[laceanddoodles]

So! Costume design!

Most of what I, personally, do with costume design comes from the world of historical fashion and costuming. I am very comfortable with historical shapes and such, and that comes partially from an in depth understanding of what makes up these historical outfits. So, this will take a lot of drawing and a lot of explaining, but I'm going to go basically trend by trend, starting from the mid 1700s, up until the 1950s or so. We're going to look into the layers of each outfit, talk about the foundation layers, and how that affects the finished look.

Let's go!


Look 1-- The Rococo/Georgian/18th century "Marie Antoinette" look.


First, let's start with my lovely croquis. You'll all be seeing a lot of her, basically just as the paper doll for me to draw clothing onto. Name her if you want, I'm not gonna.


-Never EVER wear a corset against bare skin. Don't write it into your characters, don't do it in real life. Don't do it. Wear at least a camisole. From the early middle ages up until the late Victorian era, the standard underwear for under the corset purposes was a chemise. These are very plain little shift-dresses, usually go to about the knee. In the 18th century, drawers were rarely worn under the chemise. That really came later. (ALSO, I didn't draw shoes, but put your shoes on BEFORE the corset. It's so much easier.)
-Up until about 1830, the true modern corset had yet to be invented. Women wore "stays," the direct ancestor of the corset. One of the two main differences are that instead of metal eyelets, hand stitched eyelets were used. This made the lacing a lot more delicate-- if you lace too tight, you risk ripping the stays. The other main difference is the lack of a busk. A busk is a stiff piece of metal or wood at the center front of the garment. It's usually in two parts that tightly clasp together, and make it much easier to put the corset on without help. Pretty much all modern corsets have them, starting in about the 1830s.


-Panniers are made up of metal hooping or other stiff material, bound together by cording of some sort, cloth strips, or other material. Generally tied on. Pockets are also tied on under the panniers, and were very big and often embroidered prettily, in this era. You could put a LOT of stuff in there.
-A petticoat would be worn over this, I just didn't want to draw it.


And here we have a full gown!

-In several parts. The lighter ruffly skirt is a second, highly decorative, petticoat. Often only decorated in the front where it might show.
-The open over-gown would pin closed (as opposed to buttons, hooks/eyes, etc.) in the center front, with a stomacher pinned over to hide the closures.
-Sleeve ruffles are separate, attached under the sleeves.
-The little modesty scarf is called a "Fichu"
-Wigs were worn, but really, most women just styled and powdered their natural hair. (Check out "The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty: 40 Projects for Period Accurate Hairstyles, Makeup, and Accessories" for more information.)
-All in all, remember that the 18th century was 100 years. There are many many more 18th century looks than just this one. There were so many trends and styles and waves, this is just one generalized shape.


And next time, we're doing Regency!! Thanks for coming along!

 

[Simon_Hawk]

That's cool! Will you be sharing more drawings created with traditional media as well?

 

[laceanddoodles]

That's cool! Will you be sharing more drawings created with traditional media as well?

Probably, but for this specific purpose, digital is much simpler, since I can just navigate layers and keep the blank croquis undisturbed. It's nice to be able to use the same model over and over.

 

[Simon_Hawk]

Probably, but for this specific purpose, digital is much simpler, since I can just navigate layers and keep the blank croquis undisturbed. It's nice to be able to use the same model over and over.

It makes total sense! Thanks

 

[laceanddoodles]

It makes total sense! Thanks

Sure! I'm having fun with this. Talking about old clothes is pretty much my favorite thing

 

[Melpomene]

Christ you are so good at this! And well-researched, I love seeing some historically accurate costumes!

 

[laceanddoodles]

Christ you are so good at this! And well-researched, I love seeing some historically accurate costumes!

Thank you! I've been drawing my whole life, and doing this research for the past seven or so years.

 

[Melpomene]

Well you're good at it keep up the good work!

 

[ashwynne]

This is fantastic and I love it!!! Very excited for Regency as well! I LOVE Regency era fashion

 

[laceanddoodles]

This is fantastic and I love it!!! Very excited for Regency as well! I LOVE Regency era fashion

Right? There's so much to say and analyze. Such a lovely part of history. I love the transitional eras

 

[Simon_Hawk]

I had to Google "Regency fashion" because I'm a stupid American and didn't know what that was. XD

 

[laceanddoodles]

I had to Google "Regency fashion" because I'm a stupid American and didn't know what that was. XD

That’s so valid! Basically, it was the fashion world’s response to the French Revolution and the end of the 18th century, and slowly transitioning into the early Victorian era.

 

[laceanddoodles]

Regency

The Regency period usually refers to the period of time after the end of the 18th century, and before the beginning of Queen Victoria. Really, the only reason why the average person has a mental image of regency fashion comes from Jane Austen-- But it's worth noting that Austen's works take place early into this period, and it lasts for about 30 years. Queen Victoria took the throne in 1837, effectively beginning the Victorian era. Since this is late into the 1830s, that gives the decade a really interesting transitional feeling. So, I'll be introducing it here, but talking a more about its repercussions on the decades to come.

For the first twenty years of Regency (1800-1820s), the underwear was pretty much identical to the underwear of the 18th century, with one addition: drawers. So, if you want to see a depiction of the stays and chemise that would have been worn, scroll up. Panniers, however, fell out of style.


From 1800 to about 1810, the skirts were very full, and rather plain. This fullness was achieved by gathering at the waist. If you aren't aware, gathering is achieved by stitching straight across the top of the fabric, and then pulling the fabric in so it gathers and bunches and creates a ruffled affect. Long trains were also popular. From the 1810s to the 1820s, skirts got narrower and more richly decorated. 1820s to the 30s, this accelerated, and the skirts got wider again. Then, the 30s hit, and everything started to change. Firstly, the metal eyelet was introduced, revolutionizing corsetry.


Corsets completely changed. The shape was different, the construction was different, and wearing them was different. Front busks meant corsets were easier to put on by yourself, and metal eyelets meant they could be laced tighter. The stays of the 18th century were meant to make your torso look flat and triangular. The new corset was meant to give you an hourglass. By emphasizing the hips and bust, the waist is made to look smaller. Note: I did not edit the original croquis. Her full form is still under there, not a single pixel of size has been reduced. One defining trait of any Victorian look is the optical illusion. Everything is working together to make the waist look smaller than it actually is. Next up, some more undergarments.


Foundation garments and dress supports are VITAL to the 19th century fashionable lady's wardrobe. The big sister of the hoop crinoline is the corded petticoat. It is stiffened by hoops of rope or horsehair, and with several other petticoats on top gives a desirable shape. This carries on until the crinoline is invented in 1856. Also vital to the 30s are sleeve supports, designed to keep your massive puff sleeves at maximum puff.


Women's clothing in the 1830s is large, dramatic, and inspired by Regency menswear. You can really see how the massive sleeves/shoulders, tall belt, and wide skirt work together to create an hourglass. The waist looks tiny. The hair also goes a little crazy. Just a bit.


In 1837, as I said, Victoria rose to the throne of England, and a new era began. So, tune in next time for the 1840s, and then we'll be on to the crinoline era.

 

[laceanddoodles]

1840s time, Babey!

Okay, so! The 1840s are the first full decade of the Victorian era, and a lot of the trends that carried through the whole era started here. The underwear is pretty similar to the 1830s, to the point where I didn't want to draw new underwear. There are some differences in silhouette, though, so I'll be padding my artistic renderings with some primary sources. Which is how I'm going to introduce the notion of the fashion plate. Fashion plates were artistic renderings of women in fashionable dress, which a lady could take to her dress maker and say "I like that style, let's do it in purple." Pretty much until the 20th century, a majority of women did not buy their clothing off the rack, as we do today. Either they made their own clothes, or they had them made to their measurements if they could afford that. So! Let's dig in!


As I said, the underthings didn't change all that much. The most conspicuous change was the sudden lack of sleeve puffers. Queen Victoria projected an air of simple austerity, and the fashions of the day changed to reflect that. Things became a lot simpler.


Common details were lots and lots of pleats and pin tucks, and sometimes geometric patterns along hemlines. I haven't really portrayed it well, here, but the bodices were elongated drastically, compared to the empire waists of the previous decades. It was also commonplace for dresses to be separate pieces-- the skirt and the bodice --and many dresses came with two bodices, one for day wear and one for the evening.


This differential pretty much shows the rules for evening wear vs day wear. In the evening, the upper chest and shoulders are allowed to show. Sleeves are short (although sometimes long gloves were worn) and the bodice is decorated. In this case, by a pleated "bertha collar" in a contrasting color, with some lace for flair.


And now, some fashion plate fun!



It's worth noting that the white wedding dress came into style in the 1840s, after Queen Victoria wore white to her wedding. She famously used English lace for her gown, to promote the makers, and bring new vitality to their industry.

 

[laceanddoodles]

The decade by decade fashion history course will resume shortly, for the time being have a few more Tudor inspired costume designs I did for a rp I’m in!

 

[peritwinkle]

The decade by decade fashion history course will resume shortly, for the time being have a few more Tudor inspired costume designs I did for a rp I’m in!

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Gorgeous, I love this era in terms of fashion

 

[laceanddoodles]

Gorgeous, I love this era in terms of fashion

God me too. I've done a lot less research into it, but I just adore the shapes and lines. The long, thin, stays just make the body look so elegant. (Although I've heard from a reenactor friend that they're far less comfortable than 18th century stays or 19th century corsets.)

 

[peritwinkle]

God me too. I've done a lot less research into it, but I just adore the shapes and lines. The long, thin, stays just make the body look so elegant. (Although I've heard from a reenactor friend that they're far less comfortable than 18th century stays or 19th century corsets.)

Personally I like how richly embellished they are. Satins and gold embroidery are my faves.

 

[laceanddoodles]

Personally I like how richly embellished they are. Satins and gold embroidery are my faves.

Yessss me too. You gotta build up costumes like that from the bottom, right? Get the shape down and then just keep adding and adding until it looks like a fully realized gown, complete with rich brocades and hundreds of pearls.

 

[laceanddoodles]

Another Tudor design, the same character aged up.

 

[Daisie]

Lovely. c: You remind me of a Youtuber I watch now and again. I look forward to seeing more works.

 

[laceanddoodles]

Lovely. c: You remind me of a Youtuber I watch now and again. I look forward to seeing more works.

I have a feeling you might be referring to Bernadette Banner?

 

[ashwynne]

These characters are too gorgeous.... between the clothes and the characters themselves and just EVERYTHING, I totally want a historical RP now LOL.

 

[laceanddoodles]

These characters are too gorgeous.... between the clothes and the characters themselves and just EVERYTHING, I totally want a historical RP now LOL.

Hey, I'm always in the mood for historical!